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Viennese Christmas Markets (and Why You Should Visit!) - by Mark Somers

Vienna, a city known for its music, history, and culture, is a magical place to visit all year round. But when December rolls around, the city acquires a whole new level of enchantment thanks to its world-famous Christmas markets (called Weihnachtsmärkte). These markets are a centuries-old tradition; in 1298, King Albert I of Germany allowed Vienna the privilege of holding the world’s first December market. Through the years new ones have appeared, turning the city into a truly magical place around the Christmas period.

 

Rathausplatz Christmas Market

 

Open from 11 November to 26 December this year, the Christmas market at the Rathaus (city hall) is hands down the biggest, prettiest, and most popular market of them all, attracting an estimated 4 million visitors in recent years. Here, hundreds of stalls await, with the enticing smell of baked goods, scented candles, and roasted chestnuts beckoning. Delectable treats such as fluffy pancakes (Kaiserschmarrn), schnitzels, sausages, pretzels, and candied apples are on offer, with wooden cutlery instead of plastic to minimize the environmental impact of the event. But besides edible treats, vendors also sell jewellery, handmade ornaments, and traditional Austrian drinks, such as mulled wine (known as Glühwein)- sure to warm you up during the cold yuletide! The beautiful Rathaus all lit up and the giant Christmas tree are a sight to behold and the 3,000 m² ice-rink with Christmas music playing in the background ensures an unparalleled ice-skating experience. In the nearby park, there is a carnival for younger children, with a Ferris Wheel and a giant 12-metre-high multi-level carousel. For couples, there is the romantic Tree of Hearts, which is decorated with lights and baubles- an experience worthy of Disney!

 

Schönbrunn Market

Situated in the forecourt of Schönbrunn Palace with a grand imperial backdrop, this market is hard to beat in terms of elegance. With a strong focus on arts and crafts, this atmospheric market offers traditionally crafted items, hand-made Christmas decorations, live music performances, and a wide-ranging children’s program, including a charming nativity scene, a Christmas Puzzle Adventure, and a petting zoo. Choirs, a cappella groups, and brass ensembles will daily perform live in front of the grand Christmas tree, creating a festive Advent atmosphere. Moreover, you will find booth after booth of quality arts and crafts from the workshops of candle makers, glass blowers, wood carvers, metal workers, potters, needleworkers, and other artists and artisans. Needless to say, the Schönbrunn market also offers a wide range of food and drink; visitors can embark on a culinary journey, indulging in savoury dishes like stuffed dumplings, oven-baked and spiral-cut potatoes, soups, cheesy spätzle, old Hungarian kettle goulash, freshly baked waffles, and fragrant Germknödel. Vegetarian and vegan foodies can also look forward to delightful vegetable soups, lentil stews, rosemary potatoes, spinach, and feta cheese spätzle. From 26 to 27 December, the Christmas Market transforms overnight into a New Year’s Market. The assortment of trinkets expands until 4 January with lucky charms like chimney sweeps, horseshoes, fly agarics, and little pigs.

 

Belvedere Palace Market

As the name suggests, the Belvedere Palace Christmas Market is situated in the gardens in front of the Upper Belvedere Palace, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The palace is known for its stunning architecture and beautiful gardens, making it a picturesque backdrop for the market.

 

What sets the Belvedere Palace Christmas Market apart is its elegant and sophisticated ambiance, particularly since it is somewhat quieter than the other markets. The beautifully illuminated palace along with its gardens creates a magical and romantic setting that's perfect for a leisurely stroll. The market's stalls are tastefully decorated and exude a cosy and welcoming atmosphere. The palace also houses a world-class collection of Austrian art, such as Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss, one of the most famous artworks in the world, if indeed a little controversial. The Austrian baroque, medieval, and romantic art in the palace collection add to the Christmas market’s appeal, making it a must-see for art enthusiasts and culture-lovers in Vienna.

 

Stephansplatz Market

 

Finally, although it much newer and smaller in scale compared to some of Vienna's other Christmas markets, Stephansplatz is by no means inferior. It focusses heavily on tradition, as traditional Christmas markets are often characterized by a greater sense of community and this market embodies that spirit. The location in particular helps the Stephansplatz market to stand out. It is situated in the heart of Vienna, in the iconic Stephansplatz, against the backdrop of St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom). Townhouses and other buildings from the time of Mozart (whose former home is on the adjacent street) add to the backdrop, making it a traditional and romantic setting for the market. While the Stephansplatz Christmas Market may not have as many entertainment options as larger markets, it typically offers live music, carol-singing, and other performances that add to the festivities. This reflects the traditional practice of enjoying live music during the holiday season. And, of course, there is a lot of choice on the gastronomical front. The market offers gingerbread cookies, roasted almonds, and freshly baked bread, but perhaps the more adventurous visitors can try a fancy variety of meatloaf called Leberkäse, a local speciality. The most popular variety of Leberkäse is made from a combination of pork, bacon, and beef. While it might seem heavy in fats, it really is a treat for the taste buds.

 

 

Overall, Vienna's Christmas markets, or Weihnachtsmärkte, bring the city to life during the holiday season, filling the air with festive cheer and creating a truly enchanting atmosphere. These centuries-old customs have evolved into a captivating blend of art, culture, and culinary delights. But above all, the Christmas markets are more than just places to shop and eat; they are a celebration of tradition and community, so I would strongly recommend them to everyone as a must-see at least once in your lifetime. In the words of singer-songwriter Billy Joel, ‘Vienna waits for you’ – so what are you waiting for? Visit these markets, embrace the holiday season, and create lasting memories in the heart of the Austrian capital!

 

 

Mark Somers (PRKB)

 

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