What are Onsen?
Onsen (温泉) in Japanese directly translates to “hot spring” and usually refers to certain types of water bodies used for baths along with the traditional inns that tend to surround them. It should come as no surprise that Japan, a country known for its high amounts of volcanic activity, has a plethora of naturally occurring sources of hot water that originate from deep within the Earth, which means that “as many as 25,000 hot spring sources have been found in Japan that supply some 3,000 establishments with hot spring water.” (Erikson & Masui, 2014)
Onsen can quite easily be confused with a Sento (銭湯), which translates to “public bath”, as they appear almost identical from the outside, despite there technically being a difference between them. (Life Where I'm From, 2018) The distinction comes down to the type of water which is used in the bath. While sento is a more general term that can be used to refer to any type of public bathing facility, an onsen must contain water from a natural hot spring, instead of merely heated tap water. More specifically, an onsen is defined as hot water, mineral water, and water vapor or other gas gushing “from inside the Earth (from a depth of about 1.5 km)”, which has “a temperature of at least 24 °C (75 °F) when it reaches the surface”, and contains “a certain concentration of minerals, such as iron, magnesium, sodium, or sulphur”. (Erikson & Masui, 2014)
Onsen Rules
There are a variety of rules that must be followed and etiquette that needs to be adhered to. The first and most noticeable facet of the onsen experience is the fact that guests must be completely naked when using the facilities. This means that all clothes are removed in the changing room before entering the bathing area. Although swimsuits are prohibited, guests are allowed to bring a small towel with them which can be used as a washcloth or to cover their genitals when walking from bath to bath or from the washing area to the baths. These can also display a sense of modesty at times. However, even these towels cannot be submerged or dipped in the water, as they are considered to be unclean, thus forcing them to either be put to the side or folded and placed upon one’s head while in the bath.
This idea of cleanliness extends to before and between entering the baths. It is customary for a guest to wash and rinse themselves thoroughly before touching the hot water. This can be done at the bathing stations usually placed next to the hot spring baths, which are equipped with “stools, faucets, wooden buckets, and toiletries such as soap and shampoo; nearly all onsen also provide removable shower heads for bathing convenience.” (Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., 2022) Not abiding by these social customs would be unacceptable to the people of Japan.
Often, guests also clean themselves as they move from one bath to another. This is done by taking pails of hot water from a central source and pouring it over individual parts of the body. Not only does this work as a cleansing mechanism, but it also acclimatizes one’s body to the heat they will have to endure in the baths themselves. (NHK WORLD-JAPAN, 2019) By getting used to the temperature, guests are able to enter the baths, which are usually over 40 °C, more easily.
Lastly, tattoos can be seen as taboo in many onsen establishments. Historically, guests with tattoos were prohibited from entering as they were likely to be part of the Yakuza ormembers of other criminal organizations. Not only are the establishment owners against tattoos, but the people of Japan areas well. In fact, “A study carried out recently by the Japan Tourism Agency revealed […] that 47 per cent of operators that permitted people with tattoos to use their facilities had received complaints from other guests.” (Ryall, 2015) Opposition to tattoos runs deep within Japanese society.
Of course, there are exceptions to all these rules. In modern onsen, swimsuits might be required when in mixed baths. Similarly, there do exist onsen where towels are permitted to be soaked in the water along with the guests. Finally, even tattoos, which are greatly looked down upon, are allowed in certain onsen establishments, and these are increasing in number as catering to foreign tourists becomes more and more important to keep businesses running. Often, a compromise is made as guests are permitted to enter as long as they cover up any small tattoos they might have with a patch or sticking plaster. When asking onsen owners “Just over 30 per cent said they will not turn someone with a tattoo away, while a further 13 per cent say they will grant someone with a tattoo access under certain conditions, such as having it covered up.” (Ryall, 2015) Thus, onsen have become a facet of Japanese culture that everyone can experienceand appreciate.
History of Onsen
Onsen have been around in Japan for over a thousand years, with one of the earliest written records of them being the Izumo no Kuni Fudoki (Chronicle of the Land of Izumo), thought to be written in 733 AD. Although written nearly 1300 years ago, it proudly proclaims “A hot spring spouts forth in this area along the riverside. Men and women, young and old alike go back and forth […] enjoying a good time drinking and reveling. Bathing just once in this hot spring will clear your skin, and continued bathing will cure all of your aches and pains.” (Tadanori, 2015)Here, the popularity and benefits of onsen are described not only as they were perceived over a thousand years ago, but as they continue to be perceived in the current day. This historical aspect explains how onsen are not merely an essential aspect of Japanese culture now, they have been for millennia.
As for their origin, it is possible that onsen were inspired by the combination of the Shinto belief of misogi and the Buddhist Unjitsu sutra. Misogi refers to “ritual ablution (purification with water)” (Tadanori, 2015) and was initially undertaken by nobles in preparation for important ceremonies, to cleanse their bodiesand souls, before it was also adopted by the greater public. To the Japanese people, taking a bath and washing were not merely physical purifications of mud and grime, but spiritual ones as well.
Then came along the Unjitsu sutra in the middle of the 8thcentury. It taught the boons of bathing in hot water, which was especially enticing as up until then, it had been customary to bathe in the sea, in cold water, or under a waterfall. By providing an alternative that entailed a much more pleasant and relaxing physical experience, the sutra’s teachings became widely accepted and were welcomed by the public, even more so as they also claimed to cure illness and diseases while bestowing blessings upon those who bathed.
Hence, it is quite possible that the culture of going to onsen, and possibly the ideology of cleanliness itself that has proliferated throughout Japanese society originated from a combination of these two religious beliefs. This union is what led to the thought process that bathing purifies the soul, not just the body.
Mixed Bathing / Konyoku (混浴)
When talking about the history of onsen, mixed bathing must also be discussed. Since times long passed, Japanese men and women were accustomed to bathing together in onsen. They did not believe it to be lewd or vulgar and instead believed that their bodies were not something to be ashamed of. However, the country began moving away from this practice when the American Commodore Perry conveyed his disapproval of the act. As Japan was opening to the West for the first time during the Meiji Restoration, it needed to improve its public image, and naked mixed bathing, a concept relatively foreign to the West, was one of the factors which were pulling the nation’s reputation down. Thus, the Japanese government decided to separatebathing by gender. This trend only accelerated after World War II and now, it would be a rarity to find a mixed-gender onsen, although they would be more accepted in rural areas of Japan.
Thus, with mixed bathing’s popularity spiraling downwards, the alternatives created were creative and varied. The simplest solution was to just place a physical barrier in already built onsen to create separate areas for the two genders, as many owners did not wish to unnecessarily increase costs. However, this was not a very satisfactory solution. Therefore, the idea of allowing different genders into the onsen at different times of day was implemented. This worked well for many establishments, but some even decided to choose a side and specialize their onsen to a singular gender. This led to the creation of women-only or men-only onsen. Nevertheless, there do still exist some onsen where mixed bathing is allowed, and this is because they have been grandfathered in from when these laws had not yet been put in place. This especially appeals to those in the Japanese population who consider mixed bathing in onsen to be a crucial piece of Japanese culture that ought to be treasured and maintained.
Health Benefits of Onsen
Despite the many religious aspects of onsen which indicate there being mental and spiritual benefits which one can gain from them, it is possible that onsen are even more famous for the physical boons which they are thought to grant. Moreover, the health benefits that onsen claim to provide might have some truth to them, considering how Japan has had one of the longest life expectancies in the world for multiple decades.
One of the ways in which the benefits of onsen are often explained is by simplifying them to be a form of stimulation. Not only does the hot water, in combination with various minerals and other elements, lead to an increase in hormone secretion, but it also causes an initial rise in blood pressure, heart rate, and blood sugar levels. At first, this might seem to be exactly the reaction you wish to avoid. However, on closer inspection, you realize that after these events, the body compensates by decreasing these same values. As the hot water and the body alternate in their actions, eventually, anequilibrium is reached, at which point the body can repair itself in optimal conditions.
An even more scientific explanation can be found in the world of chemistry. Currently, the benefits of food with antioxidant properties are widely recognized, as they are said to get rid of “free radicals”, which are “the source of senescence (aging) and many lifestyle diseases, including cancer, high blood pressure (hypertension), arterial sclerosis, heart attack, stroke, diabetes, and obesity.” (Tadanori, 2015) The reason why “free radicals” cause 90 percent of illnesses and aging is that they “oxidize” or corrode substances, and the human body is susceptible to this damage. As one of 60 trillioncell membranes is repeatedly attacked, it eventually fails to protect the DNA inside and allows it to become cancerous. Fighting against these effects necessitates the implementation of “restoration”, the opposing action to “oxidation”, for it not only averts aging anddecay but activates corroded cells, leading to a multitude of benefits, including rejuvenated skin. Onsen offer this “restorative power” and thus are called “the waters of youth” in both the Eastern and Western hemispheres of the Earth. In this way, onsen can restore the clarity of corroded skin and bring back the youthful appearances that each human desires.
Naturally, this “restorative power” is one of the reasons why onsen have been so alluring to the Japanese people. This incentive has been a reliable constant since the time when the Izumo no KuniFudoki was written 1300 years ago, to the Edo period 400 years ago, and even now in the 21st century, nor will it change in the foreseeable future since “soaking culture” continues valiantly in Japan.
Types of Onsen
The types of onsen that exist are nearly uncountable, and yet somehow, they each seem to provide a different physical benefit. The most popular types include normal onsen, acid onsen, sulfur onsen, sulfate onsen, salt onsen, iron onsen, copper onsen, aluminum onsen, carbon dioxide onsen, radioactive onsen, and last but not least, bicarbonate onsen.
Bicarbonate onsen are especially famous and are often called bijin-no-yu (美人 の 湯) or “beautiful women’s hot springs”. (Erikson & Masui, 2014) This is because they are known to make skin smooth and supple, which is highly sought after in both Japanese society and abroad, and these effects are backed up by evidence as well. The benefits to one’s health were proven through a study in 2010 conducted by Saticine Medical, a pharmaceutical company based in Japan. After thorough scientific testing, it was found out that the waters of this type of onsen increased the moisture content of human skin by 165% to 180%, while modern cosmetic items are rarely able to achieve even a 150% increase.
Other than imparting soft and silky skin, onsen are also capable of helping cure illnesses such as rheumatism, chronic skin disease, chronic gynecological disorders, diabetes, chronic constipation, high blood pressure, and menstrual disorders, along with providing various other mild effects.
Rotenburo
When discussing types of onsen, the distinction between indoor and outdoor onsen must be made. Outdoor onsen, also called Rotenburo (露天風呂), are generally preferred over indoor onsen, as they stay more in line with the fundamental beliefs of onsen, which include connecting with nature. (Asami, 2014)Quite often, the views from an outdoor onsen are spectacular, ranging from oceans to mountain ranges, and in the winter, you can even find yourself surrounded by a thick layer of snow, despite the irony of being in a steaming hot pool. These rotenburo are usually made to fit the personality of theirsurroundings, to further please the eye, while also ensuring privacy using a purposefully chosen landscape. The variety that exists in onsen means that each person has their own favoriteand no two are alike!
Why are Onsen popular?
Cost
It is natural to wonder why onsen are so popular in Japan, especially in this day and age where most houses contain a place to bathe. The most obvious reason that comes to mind is the low cost. Unlike in the West, where equivalent spas or public baths would cost you a hefty sum, in Japan onsen are extremely affordable, with the entrance fee often costing under $10, or possibly $20 or $30 for fancier alternatives. Similarly, the culinary dishes served at these establishments are also cheap, with it being possible to buy dinner for under $10, contrastingonce again with the prices you would find in the West. Thus, being able to experience a relaxing evening and dinner for under $20 hooks the public in.
Skinship
Another cause of Japanese onsen’s popularity is the sense of equality. The phrase Hadaka no Tsukiai (裸の付き合い) (Life Where I'm From, 2018), which translates to “Naked Socializing”is at the heart of this topic. The premise is that when everyone is naked, everyone is alike, for there is no visible difference between, for example, a rich doctor and a poor farmer. This also relates to a term called “skinship” which used to refer to the intimacy between a mother and her child, but now is used more broadly for the bonding of two people through physical contact.This of course includes bathing as well and suggests that people can create deeper connections with others when they are naked or in close physical proximity to each other.
Culture Shock of Onsen
The unusual nature of onsen is possibly the most important topic to discuss, specifically from a Western perspective. In our day-to-day lives in the West, the idea of seeing others naked and being seen naked by others is a thought that never even crosses our minds. For many, the first time they experience an onsen is the first time they have ever been naked in public.
From personal experience when I went to my first onsen last summer, and from what others have told me, I can say with certainty that your first trip to an onsen is quite the affair. At first, nervousness and anxiety build up, as you are uncertain of how you should act, and embarrassment clouds your mind.However, if you can get past that mental hurdle, you realize that there is nothing to feel ashamed about, everyone around you is in the same situation, and you can be confident in your actions.In fact, onsen can make you worry less about your body image. Once you realize that no one is troubled by how you look, you are proudly able to put your body on display, not having to think about the supposed flaws it might have. (Jessie, 2023)
Naturally, the extent of this culture shock depends on what country you originate from. In the US, there are saunas where people of the same gender spend time together while naked. However, for someone from India, the onsen experience would be an even greater culture shock as nothing of the sort exists in the country. The true lesson, however, is that despite the great differences in culture between Japan and the West, you can come to understand and accept them if only you go and experience them for yourself.
